Cashmere labels often read like aviation manifests: "2-ply, 14 micron, 220 GSM." Most buyers read past it because the numbers do not seem to mean anything specific. They do. This is a plain-English reference for the three numbers that actually tell you what you are buying.
Micron — how fine the fibre is
Micron count measures the diameter of an individual cashmere fibre. A micron is one-thousandth of a millimetre. The finer the fibre, the softer the finished cloth.
| Micron | Grade | Feel |
|---|---|---|
| 12–14 µ | AAA / Pashmina-grade | Cloud-soft, almost weightless. Costs 3× Grade A. |
| 14–16 µ | AA | Soft and warm. The everyday luxury sweet spot. |
| 16–19 µ | A | Soft enough for most uses; more durable than finer grades. |
| 19+ µ | Sub-cashmere / coarse | Technically not "real" cashmere in most regulatory definitions. |
For context: merino wool is around 17–22 microns. The very best (and most expensive) merino is still coarser than mid-grade cashmere. Human hair is around 70 microns.
Ply — how many threads are twisted together
Ply tells you how many spun yarns are twisted together to form the working thread. One ply is a single yarn. Two ply is two yarns twisted together. Four, six, and eight ply follow the same pattern.
More ply = more durable + more body + slightly more weight. Less ply = drapier + finer + more delicate.
- Single-ply cashmere is rare in finished garments — it is mostly used as a base yarn for extremely fine summer-weight pieces. Beautiful drape, will pill if not cared for.
- Two-ply is the standard for shawls and lightweight scarves. Strong enough to wear daily, light enough to drape elegantly.
- Four-ply sits in the middle — perfect for winter scarves and heavier sweaters. The classic Loro Piana cashmere sweater is 4-ply.
- Six- to eight-ply is the territory of cashmere blankets, throws, and overcoat-weight cloth. Substantial, opulent, expensive.
Ply ≠ quality
A common confusion: people assume higher ply = higher quality. It does not. A 2-ply Grade AAA scarf is finer and more luxurious than a 6-ply Grade A blanket. Ply tells you about weight and durability; micron tells you about softness and grade. They are separate dimensions.
GSM — how heavy a square metre of the finished cloth weighs
GSM (grams per square metre) is the result of micron × ply × weave density. It is the most useful single number for predicting what a finished piece will feel like.
| GSM | Best for | What it feels like |
|---|---|---|
| 90–140 | Summer-weight stoles, travel wraps | Whisper-light. Slips through a wedding ring. |
| 140–220 | Year-round shawls, scarves | Light but warm. The most versatile weight. |
| 220–320 | Winter scarves, sweaters | Substantial. Holds its drape on the shoulders. |
| 320–450 | Throws, light blankets | Heavy enough to use as a layer. Significant warmth. |
| 450–700+ | Bed blankets, coats | Substantial weight. Heirloom thickness. |
Reading a CloudSpun label
Every piece in our collection carries all three numbers, plus origin and weave. Here is what a typical label looks like and what it means:
Pearl Cashmere Shawl
100% cashmere · Grade AAA · 14 micron · 2-ply · 180 GSM
Hand-woven in Ludhiana, India. Finished and graded in our workshop.
Translation: extremely fine fibre (Grade AAA, 14 micron) spun into a light 2-ply yarn and woven to a medium-light cloth (180 GSM). This will feel cloud-soft, drape beautifully, and work in three seasons. It is one of the lightest pieces we make.
By contrast:
Highland Cashmere Throw
100% cashmere · Grade A · 17 micron · 6-ply · 480 GSM
Woven in Ludhiana, India.
A heavier, more durable cloth from a slightly coarser (but still genuine) cashmere — exactly what you want in a throw that will live on a sofa and survive being sat on for two decades.
How to choose the right numbers for what you want
For a gift, when you don't know the recipient's wardrobe: 180–220 GSM, 2-ply, Grade AA or AAA. It works year-round, in any colour, with any outfit.
For a serious winter scarf: 280–320 GSM, 4-ply, Grade A or AA. Substantial enough to feel like a coat layer.
For a wedding shawl: 140–180 GSM, 2-ply, Grade AAA. Light enough to wear over a gown without disturbing the line; warm enough for an evening reception.
For a bed blanket: 500+ GSM, 6- or 8-ply, Grade A. You want durability and heft more than fineness here.
What to ignore
Marketing terms that are not regulated and tell you nothing useful: "ultra-soft," "luxury grade," "premium cashmere," "pashmina-quality," "cloud cashmere." If a brand uses these instead of the actual numbers, ask why.
If you want to feel the difference between our grades and weights for yourself, request a free swatch pack — each square is hand-cut from the same cloth as the finished garment, labelled with micron, ply, and GSM.
Further reading: Cashmere grades A, AA, and AAA explained · How to spot real cashmere · The CloudSpun cashmere guide
